Yonne is a picturesque and culturally rich département in the northern part of Burgundy (Bourgogne-Franche-Comté), named after the river that flows through it. A region of medieval towns, vineyards, abbeys, and forests, Yonne offers a delightful mix of heritage, nature, and gastronomy, just a short distance from Paris. Whether you're drawn to the famous white wines of Chablis, the architectural treasures of Auxerre, or the spiritual calm of Vézelay, Yonne is a region that rewards exploration at a leisurely pace.
Ideal for history lovers, foodies, wine enthusiasts, and outdoor adventurers, Yonne provides an authentic taste of Burgundy without the crowds, making it a perfect getaway for a long weekend or a more extended rural escape.
Recommended Yonne accommodation: Hotels Bed & Breakfasts
Yonne is worth visiting for its unspoiled countryside, beautifully preserved towns, and world-famous wines. It’s a region of gentle river valleys, rolling vineyards, and rich monastic history — a quieter, more rustic cousin to the Côte-d'Or to the south. This part of Burgundy has a deep sense of tradition, seen in its timber-framed houses, sleepy canals, and weekly markets that have changed little in generations.
It’s also a convenient escape from urban life: only 90 minutes from Paris by train or car, Yonne is close enough for a spontaneous trip but far enough to feel a world away. Whether you're wandering Roman ruins, tasting Chablis in the village that bears its name, or admiring the grandeur of Gothic churches, Yonne invites you to take your time and soak up the charm.
The capital of Yonne, Auxerre sits gracefully on the River Yonne and is full of character and history. Its skyline of spires and domes, medieval old town, and riverside quays make it one of the most beautiful towns in Burgundy.
Things to see in Auxerre:
Cathedral of Saint-Étienne – a masterpiece of Gothic architecture with stunning stained glass and a Romanesque crypt
Abbey of Saint-Germain – with one of the oldest known Christian wall paintings in France
The Clock Tower (Tour de l’Horloge) – at the heart of the pedestrianised old town
Timber-framed houses and quiet squares – perfect for a café stop or lazy wander
Auxerre also has a lively food scene, several excellent wine bars, and easy access to the surrounding vineyards and waterways.
Chablis is one of the most famous white wine names in the world — and the village itself is just as charming. Set among rolling hills and neatly tended vines, it’s the centre of the Chablis AOC, producing pure, flinty Chardonnay known for its elegance and minerality.
While in Chablis:
Visit local domaines for tastings (many welcome walk-ins)
Stroll along the Serein River
Attend the Fête des Vins de Chablis (October) for tastings, music, and local food
Explore nearby villages like Préhy, Fontenay-près-Chablis, and Maligny
It’s a peaceful and atmospheric place to stay, especially for wine lovers.
Perched on a hilltop and visible from miles around, Vézelay is one of the most spiritual and architecturally rich villages in France. Its Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a starting point for the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage and a masterpiece of Romanesque design.
In Vézelay:
Visit the basilica for breathtaking architecture and panoramic views from the hilltop terrace
Wander the medieval streets, full of artisan galleries and boutiques
Learn about the region’s past at the Zervos Museum, housed in a former home of Romain Rolland
The village exudes a timeless atmosphere, particularly at sunset when the light hits the golden stone buildings.
Classified as one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, Noyers-sur-Serein is a fairytale village of cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, and flower-filled squares.
Highlights include:
The medieval ramparts and towers
A local art and crafts scene
The gentle Serein River, perfect for walks or a summer paddle
It’s a great place for a quiet lunch or a slow afternoon wander, and often features small seasonal markets or music performances.
This peaceful canal runs through the western part of Yonne and is one of France’s most scenic waterways, popular with cyclists and boaters alike.
Activities along the canal:
Rent a bike and ride along the towpath through small villages and forests
Try canal boating for a few days of slow, scenic travel
Stop in towns like Clamecy and Coulanges-sur-Yonne, which offer old-world charm and riverside cafés
It’s especially beautiful in spring and early summer when the canal is lined with wildflowers and everything is in bloom.
Tonnerre is a town with a rich architectural heritage and strong wine connections. It's the birthplace of Chevalier d'Éon, an 18th-century diplomat and soldier known for living part of their life as a woman — a fascinating piece of history.
Visit:
La Fosse Dionne – a mystical natural spring and ancient wash basin
Hôtel-Dieu de Tonnerre – a vast medieval hospital with a dramatic vaulted hall
Local wineries producing Tonnerre and Epineuil wines (lesser-known but high quality)
Tonnerre is also on the Canal de Bourgogne and is a good stop for boaters or cyclists.
Sitting above the Cousin Valley, Avallon is a historic hill town with a fortress-like feel, cobbled streets, and fine stone houses.
Key sights:
The 12th-century Collégiale Saint-Lazare
Ramparts and towers, offering views over the surrounding countryside
Artisans' shops and a traditional Saturday market
It’s a useful base for visiting Vézelay, the Morvan Natural Park, and various walking trails in the surrounding hills.
The Parc Naturel Régional du Morvan extends into the southern and western edge of Yonne and offers forests, lakes, and quiet walking paths. It’s ideal for nature lovers, with plenty of opportunity for:
Hiking – with marked trails through forests and along hilltops
Lakes and rivers – for swimming, kayaking, or fishing
Picnics and wildlife spotting – particularly around Cousin Valley and Lac de Saint-Agnan
Spring and autumn are especially beautiful in this region, when the colours of the landscape change dramatically.
By car: Yonne is easily accessible from Paris (approx. 1.5–2 hours) via the A6 motorway, which runs through Sens, Auxerre, and towards Beaune.
By train:
Auxerre, Tonnerre, and Joigny have regional TER connections to Paris-Bercy
Chablis and Vézelay are not on major rail lines but can be reached by car or local bus from nearby stations
By bike or boat: The Canal du Nivernais and Canal de Bourgogne are perfect for gentle cycling and boating holidays.
To make the most of Yonne, a car is essential, particularly for visiting villages, vineyards, and countryside sites. Some towns are walkable, and cycle tourism is increasingly popular thanks to the region’s greenways.
Yonne offers excellent regional cuisine that combines rustic simplicity with fine ingredients.
Must-try dishes and products:
Gougères – cheesy choux pastry puffs often served with wine tastings
Escargots de Bourgogne – classic Burgundy snails with garlic and parsley butter
Oeufs en meurette – poached eggs in red wine sauce
Burgundy beef and Morvan charcuterie
Goat’s cheeses and local honey
Restaurants range from cosy auberges to Michelin-starred dining in towns like Auxerre and Chablis. Many vineyards also offer picnic options or host food and wine pairing lunches.
Yonne’s towns and villages are great places to pick up:
Chablis wines directly from producers
Local cheeses and cured meats from market stalls
Handcrafted pottery, woodwork, and textiles
Antiques and brocante items from village markets
Market days vary by town, but Saturday in Auxerre and Sunday in Chablis are particularly vibrant.
Spring (April–June) – mild weather, blossoms, and fewer crowds
Summer (July–August) – lively, with festivals and vineyard activity
Autumn (September–October) – grape harvest, golden vineyards, wine festivals
Winter – quieter, but towns remain charming, and food is a strong focus
If wine is your focus, October during the harvest or the Fête des Vins in Chablis is a perfect time.
Fête des Vins de Chablis (October) – tastings, cellar visits, and live music
Auxerre en Fêtes (summer) – concerts and open-air events
Vézelay music festival – sacred music in the basilica
Village markets and food fairs – nearly every weekend from spring to autumn
If you have time, consider nearby excursions to:
Burgundy’s Côte-d’Or wine region – about 1.5–2 hours south
Troyes – a historic city in neighbouring Aube with timbered houses and Champagne nearby
Fontenay Abbey – a UNESCO-listed Cistercian site in northern Côte-d’Or, not far from Avallon
Burgundy canal systems – ideal for multiday bike or boat trips
Yonne is the kind of place where you can spend a morning wandering ancient streets, an afternoon tasting world-class wine, and an evening dining by candlelight in a riverside inn. With its blend of heritage, quiet countryside, and exceptional food and drink, it offers all the best of Burgundy with a relaxed, rural soul.
Whether you're walking the hilltop paths of Vézelay, sipping Chablis in a vaulted cellar, or pedalling beside a sleepy canal, Yonne invites you to travel slowly, taste deeply, and discover a lesser-known — but deeply rewarding — side of France.